There is nothing trivial about food: the study of culinary culture and its history provides an insight into broad social, political and economic changes in society. The present collection of essays reflects many of the important transitions through which 40 European countries have passed, and in this sense, it is a history book. It is also a colourful celebration of an enormously rich part of our cultural heritage.The tastes and smells of a country¹s traditional table are a meaningful route to an important part of its collective memory, accessible to everyone. Food is also one of the simplest and most direct ways to promote multicultural understanding.This book offers an excellent insight into the meaning of food culture and will be of interest to anyone who wishes to explore the diversity of our European cultural heritage.”We have ever identified our neighbours and friends by their culinary customs: here, in one book, is a groundbreaking study, bringing to one table the infinity of dishes that make Europe today.” – TOM JAINE, Publisher, Petits propos culinaires, Prospect Books.
Culinary cultures of Europe has been awarded the world’s best culinary history book at a Gourmand World Media Awards ceremony in Kuala Lumpur on 20 May. It was also awarded the Silver Prize in the category “Book focused on a country or region – gourmet tour” at the Gourmet Media World Festival on January 2006. The members of the jury appreciated its “insight into the meaning of food and culture” and its “exploration of the diversity of the European cultural heritage”.
Table of Contents
Preface 9
Introduction: Food: identity and diversity by Fabio Parasecoli 11
Country essays
Armenia: Insights into traditional food culture. Svetlana Haik Poghosyan 39
Austria: Contemporary art and the essence of eating. Rainer Metzger 53
Azerbaijan: A cuisine in harmony. Tahir I. Amiraslanov 65
Belgium: Endives, Brussels sprouts and other innovations. Marc Jacobs and Jean Fraikin 75
Bosnia and Herzegovina: The mouth is small but it can swallow a mountain. Nenad Tanovi´c 87
Bulgaria: Golden fruits from the orchards. Rayna Gavrilova 95
Croatia: From myth to authenticity. Veljko Barbieri 103
Cyprus: Culinary traditions throughout the year. Savvas Sakkadas 119
Denmark: Nation-building and cuisine. Else-Marie Boyhus 129
Estonia: Pleasures of the palate. Maire Suitsu 139
Finland: Continuity and change. Johanna Mäkelä 147
France: French gastronomy, French gastronomies. Jean-Pierre Poulain 157
Georgia: Foodways in rapid transition, Mary Ellen Chatwin and Zaal Kikodze 171
Germany: Sauerkraut, beer and so much more. Gunther Hirschfelder and Gesa U. Schönberger 183
Greece: A well-tempered culinary experience. Eleonora Skouteri-Didaskalou and Evie Voutsina 195
Hungary: The komatál: symbol of friendship and affection. Zsuzsanna Tátrai 209
Iceland: The creative fight for survival. Örn D. Jónsson 217
Ireland: Simplicity and integration, continuity and change. Regina Sexton 227
Italy: Food in Italian cinema. Viviana Lapertosa 241
Latvia: Old customs and contemporary habits. Ieva Pigozne-Brinkmane 255
Lithuania: Rituals and feasts. Birute Imbrasiene. 265
Luxembourg: A gastronomic expedition. Georges Hausemer 281
Malta: Continuity in change. Kenneth Gambin 291
Moldova: Ritual breads through the seasons. Varvara Buzilâ and Teodorina Bâzgu 301
Monaco: A rich culinary heritage. Françoise Gamerdinger and René Novella 305
Netherlands: Twenty-two minutes at the table. Bert Natter 311
Norway: Between innovation and tradition. Henry Notaker 319
Poland: Cuisine, culture and variety on the Wisla river. Kazimierz Krzysztofek 333
Portugal: A dialogue of cultures. Ana Pessoa e Costa 347
Romania: Discoveries and delights. The House of Guides and Ministry of Culture and Religious Affairs 357
Russian Federation: Rediscovering classics, enjoying diversity. Alexandra Grigorieva 369
Serbia and Montenegro: A culinary quilt. Vesna Bizi´c-Omcikus 381
Slovak Republic: The character of Slovak cuisine. Rastislava Stolicná 391
Slovenia: The festive table. Janez Bogataj 397
Spain: Agape and conviviality at the table. Diego Valverde Villena 411
Sweden: From crispbread to ciabatta. Richard Tellström 423
“The former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia”: A new regime of nutrition. Dusan Matic 435
Turkey: The tastes of a splendid heritage. Fahriye Hazer Sancar 443
Ukraine: The pleasures of good food. Oksana Y. Vassyl’ieva 459
United Kingdom: A flavorful adventure. Heather Hay Ffrench and VisitBritain 463