Goldstein, Darra., Merkle, Kathrin, Parasecoli, Fabio, Mennell, Stephen, and Council of Europe. Directorate General IV–Education, Culture Heritage, Youth Sport. Culinary Cultures of Europe : Identity, Diversity and Dialogue. Strasbourg [France] : Croton-on-Hudson, N.Y.: Council of Europe Pub. ; Sales Agent for U.S. and Canada, Manhattan Pub., 2005.

There is nothing trivial about food: the study of culinary culture and its history provides an insight into broad social, political and economic changes in society. The present collection of essays reflects many of the important transitions through which 40 European countries have passed, and in this sense, it is a history book. It is also a colourful celebration of an enormously rich part of our cultural heritage.The tastes and smells of a country¹s traditional table are a meaningful route to an important part of its collective memory, accessible to everyone. Food is also one of the simplest and most direct ways to promote multicultural understanding.This book offers an excellent insight into the meaning of food culture and will be of interest to anyone who wishes to explore the diversity of our European cultural heritage.”We have ever identified our neighbours and friends by their culinary customs: here, in one book, is a groundbreaking study, bringing to one table the infinity of dishes that make Europe today.” – TOM JAINE, Publisher, Petits propos culinaires, Prospect Books.

Culinary cultures of Europe has been awarded the world’s best culinary history book at a Gourmand World Media Awards ceremony in Kuala Lumpur on 20 May. It was also awarded the Silver Prize in the category “Book focused on a country or region – gourmet tour” at the Gourmet Media World Festival on January 2006. The members of the jury appreciated its “insight into the meaning of food and culture” and its “exploration of the diversity of the European cultural heritage”.

Table of Contents

Preface 9
Introduction: Food: identity and diversity by Fabio Parasecoli 11

Country essays

Armenia: Insights into traditional food culture. Svetlana Haik Poghosyan 39

Austria: Contemporary art and the essence of eating. Rainer Metzger 53

Azerbaijan: A cuisine in harmony. Tahir I. Amiraslanov 65

Belgium: Endives, Brussels sprouts and other innovations. Marc Jacobs and Jean Fraikin 75

Bosnia and Herzegovina: The mouth is small but it can swallow a mountain. Nenad Tanovi´c 87

Bulgaria: Golden fruits from the orchards. Rayna Gavrilova 95

Croatia: From myth to authenticity. Veljko Barbieri 103

Cyprus: Culinary traditions throughout the year. Savvas Sakkadas 119

Denmark: Nation-building and cuisine. Else-Marie Boyhus 129

Estonia: Pleasures of the palate. Maire Suitsu 139

Finland: Continuity and change. Johanna Mäkelä 147

France: French gastronomy, French gastronomies. Jean-Pierre Poulain 157

Georgia: Foodways in rapid transition, Mary Ellen Chatwin and Zaal Kikodze 171

Germany: Sauerkraut, beer and so much more. Gunther Hirschfelder and Gesa U. Schönberger 183

Greece: A well-tempered culinary experience. Eleonora Skouteri-Didaskalou and Evie Voutsina 195

Hungary: The komatál: symbol of friendship and affection. Zsuzsanna Tátrai 209

Iceland: The creative fight for survival. Örn D. Jónsson 217

Ireland: Simplicity and integration, continuity and change. Regina Sexton 227

Italy: Food in Italian cinema. Viviana Lapertosa 241

Latvia: Old customs and contemporary habits. Ieva Pigozne-Brinkmane 255

Lithuania: Rituals and feasts. Birute Imbrasiene. 265

Luxembourg: A gastronomic expedition. Georges Hausemer 281

Malta: Continuity in change. Kenneth Gambin 291

Moldova: Ritual breads through the seasons. Varvara Buzilâ and Teodorina Bâzgu 301

Monaco: A rich culinary heritage. Françoise Gamerdinger and René Novella 305

Netherlands: Twenty-two minutes at the table. Bert Natter 311

Norway: Between innovation and tradition. Henry Notaker 319

Poland: Cuisine, culture and variety on the Wisla river. Kazimierz Krzysztofek 333

Portugal: A dialogue of cultures. Ana Pessoa e Costa 347

Romania: Discoveries and delights. The House of Guides and Ministry of Culture and Religious Affairs 357

Russian Federation: Rediscovering classics, enjoying diversity. Alexandra Grigorieva 369

Serbia and Montenegro: A culinary quilt. Vesna Bizi´c-Omcikus 381

Slovak Republic: The character of Slovak cuisine. Rastislava Stolicná 391

Slovenia: The festive table. Janez Bogataj 397

Spain: Agape and conviviality at the table. Diego Valverde Villena 411

Sweden: From crispbread to ciabatta. Richard Tellström 423

“The former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia”: A new regime of nutrition. Dusan Matic 435

Turkey: The tastes of a splendid heritage. Fahriye Hazer Sancar 443

Ukraine: The pleasures of good food. Oksana Y. Vassyl’ieva 459

United Kingdom: A flavorful adventure. Heather Hay Ffrench and VisitBritain 463

Conclusions: Culinary Transitions in Europe – an overview. Stephen Mennel 469
Biographical notes 489
Sponsors 503