In his op-ed to the New York Times, Deresiewicz argues that food has not led to art, but that food has replaced art. He asserts that “foodism” has taken on the sociological characteristics of what used to be known as culture: it is costly and requires knowledge and connoisseurship, which are costly to develop. He sees “foodies” as an elitist bunch that compete with each other through their knowledge of food, also claiming that “food now expresses the symbolic values and absorbs the spiritual energies of the educated class”. Despite this, Deresiewicz is quite clear about the fact that food is NOT art: “it is not narrative or representational, does not organize and express emotion”. Dereseiwicz acknowledges the central focus of food in French and Italian cultures, but believes that Americans revere food in a way that is a disadvantage to traditional art.
Although Dereseiwicz agrees that both food and art begin by addressing the senses, he argues that food stops there. He believes that “meals can evoke emotions, but only very roughly and generally, and only within a very limited range – comfort, delight, perhaps nostalgia, but not anger, say, or sorrow, or a thousand other things”. While I do agree that it would be difficult for a meal to evoke emotions like anger from the person eating, I believe that a meal can communicate many more responses than comfort, delight, and nostalgia. A meal eaten during a certain time period by a certain group of people can show many things; while a simple meal eaten by peasants delivered little more than the sustenance required to perform manual labor, comparing this to an upper-class feast demonstrates the enormous difference in the lifestyle of the two groups. The difference between the peasant meal and the meal consumed by the nobility in this example could be likened to Telfer’s definition of an aesthetic reaction, “which may be characterized as non-neutral, non-instrumental, having a certain intensity and often accompanied by judgments for which the judgers claim a kind of objectivity” (Telfer p. 11). Seeing that most would fail to see the most basic of meals to be a form of artistic expression, the aesthetic reaction experienced by eating the upper-class meal demonstrates the potential for food to evoke emotional reactions. Dereseiwitz argues that food will not give you an “insight into other people, allow you to see the world in a new way, or force you to take an inventory of your soul”. However, by looking at food in the context of its place in time and in the world, it is quite reasonable to believe that food can provide these things to a degree. If an individual from a country like ours were to temporarily adopt a diet like one eaten in Sub-Saharan Africa, I believe that they would be given an insight into other people, see the world in a new way, and to evaluate the things they take for granted. For these reasons I believe that Dereseiwicz is incorrect in his assessment that food is not art, primarily due to the fact that he fails to view food in the correct context by only comparing it to pieces of fine art created during or after the Renaissance.
Dereseiwicz seems to approach art in a manner similar to those of the Modernist movement, who believed that art should be judged by an elite few that supposedly had the authority to define art for the population as a whole. This limits his argument in that he sees the evolution of art in a series of clear, well-defined stages. He argues that aestheticism took the place of Christianity around the turn of the 20th century, and that foodism took the place of aestheticism around the turn of the 21st century. After reading Dissanayake’s argument it should be clear to us that art is far more complex than these simplified stages of evolution, and that one who fails to realize this has a very narrow view of what constitutes as art. Because of this, I reject Deresiewicz’ argument that food has ‘replaced’ art. Instead, I believe that the idea of food as art is simply an expansion of the definition of art, offering yet another medium of artistic expression. Although I reject his main argument that food is NOT art, Dereseiwicz is correct in calling food crudely developed as a set of symbols. This was brought up by Telfer, calling food a ‘minor’ art because it is “necessarily transient, it cannot have meaning, and it cannot move us”. Food lacks the permanence that a statue or painting has, but can be replicated to a degree. Food can give insight on a group’s way of life, as I mentioned in an earlier example. Food can move us in some ways, but it is hard to argue that an old family recipe moves us more than an exceptional work of architecture. Although Deresiewicz brings up good points, I fail to accept that food is not art. Instead, I believe that food could be considered a minor art as described by Telfer.
Citation:
Deresiewicz, William (2012). A Matter of Taste? (n.d) Retrieved from http://www.nytimes.com/2012/10/28/opinion/sunday/how-food-replaced-art-as-high-culture.html
Dissanayake, E. (1991). What is art for? In K. C. Caroll (Ed.). Keynote addresses 1991 (NAEA Convention), (pp.15-26). Reston, VA: National Art Education Association.
Tefler, E. (2002). Food as Art. In Neill, A. & Riley, A. (eds.) Arguing About Art: Contemporary Philosophical Debates (2nd ed., Chap. 2). New York, NY: Routledge.