Presenter(s): Sawyer Alcazar-Hagen—Product Design
Faculty Mentor(s): Wilson Smith, James Tuttle
Session 4: Cultural Considerations—The Other
Developments in rock climbing equipment have made the sport accessible and safer for everyone . Increased climbing opportunity and safety standards have led more people to climb, including adaptive athletes . Research revealed that climbing belay and equipment has been designed for two- arm users . These designs pose challenges for safe belaying by one-armed users . Working with a male trans-humeral amputee, I developed devices making belaying easier and safer . Through observational climbing sessions, two problems were identified in belay style, managing dead rope (i .e ., slack rope from the belay device) and lowering his belay partner . These issues stemmed from devices designed for two-armed users . He adapted to product functionality to operate them, and this required unsafe actions (e .g ., stepping on rope). I explored design solutions through concept sketching, prototyping and user testing . I discovered two solutions: The Pull-Place-Repeat Climbing Cleat (PPR) and the Grigri Lowering Mod (GLM) . The PPR allows for single-handed belay with constant contact with the dead rope, while never having to step on the rope . The GLM allows the belayer to keep his hand below the device giving him better speed control while lowering his partner . Testing revealed the PPR rotated excessively with upward rope movement, a danger to the climber . The device should be stitched into the harness to prevent this rotation . The GLM functioned effectively, requiring a slight modification to the rotating lever arm . I discovered that climbing equipment design overlooks the needs of altered capabilities, but my design can facilitate a more inclusive climbing community .