Bring Back Old-Fashioned Mooncakes!

Yes, I love mooncakes; I eat a lot of them.  I’m delighted to be here during the Autumn Harvest Festival because it means I can eat mooncakes morning, day and night.  But I liked the mooncakes I ate in Beijing in 1984 better!

I blame economic progress.  The old mooncakes were flaky, somewhat powdery white pastries with bean paste inside.  Over a couple of weeks, they got harder and harder.   They were fresh, in other words!  And they got hard and stale and you could use them as hockey pucks as the season wore on!

But now…they are classy and packaged beautifully and perfectly moist.  Here’s a website that features mooncakes and shows a good picture of the filling (this type has egg yolks in the middle): 

http://www.foodiepassion.com/article_MooncakesAndTheMidAutumnFestival.htm

Each mooncake is packaged up in its own plastic tray  with a packet of desiccant and then sealed in plastic.  

Mooncake half

Mooncake tin inside

And four or more are sold in marvelously decorated tins.  These are two of the more sedate tins:

Mooncake tins

And here’s a typical display of mooncakes on sale — the selection is bewildering, but fun to peruse:NatlDaymooncakes

Today, it’s all about packaging and preservatives.  The mooncakes of yore were tastier!

harumph.

Getting Around and Reading Street Signs in Guangzhou

Let’s say you want to get to the Garden Hotel, which currently does not have a subway stop (they are building one; hooray!).  The closest metro stop appears to be Lieshi Lingyuan or “Martyr’s Park”, a mile or so away.   Don’t forget your umbrella.

The Garden Hotel is notable for its excellent tourist maps of Guangzhou.  I am a map connoisseur — I triangulate between my all-Chinese map (more detailed), my partially tourist map (some translations; available in book stores for about 10 yuan), and the less detailed (but helpful for finding museums and such) tourist maps.  The Westin also has a good map, I hear.

The Garden hotel also has a beautiful lobby (www.gardenhotelguangzhou.com), and is across the street from the Baiyun Hotel and the Friendship Store (very high end merchandise).  Finally, it is across and down the street from where the local hash house harriers meet on Saturdays.  You can also find Starbucks here, etc. etc.

So, from the Martyr’s Park metro stop to the Garden Hotel:

First, the metro station has a marvelous map system that lists the notable places nearby each exit of the subway.   Not only is there a list, but also a map showing you where you emerge out onto the street.  I find this immensely helpful.

After passing Martyrs’ Park:

MartyrParkStatue

….I then turn right at the next arterial, passing a cell phone marketplace (heading North), and when I come to the next arterial, I cross it on the pedestrian overpass, turn right and walk East for just a bit until I meet up with the next arterial heading North again.

Don’t be afraid of crossing major arterials on foot in China (well, DO remember that pedestrians don’t ever have the right of way here, and nobody will stop for a pedestrian).  Thankfully, arterials accommodate foot and bicycle traffic with very helpful pedestrian overpasses.  This one (in the background) has nice flowers:

Ped overpass

Then, it’s just a jog to the right once I meet the next big arterial where the Garden Hotel is located (Huang Shi Dong Lu).

East = Dong, West = Xi (pronounced “she”), North = Bei, as in Beijing, and South = Nan.  Middle = Zhong

Road = Lu (pronounced “loo”) and other names for arterials are Jie (“geeyeh”, soft g), or Da Jie (“big street”). 

Da = Big.  There’s also Da Dao; another name for a major arterial.

Get to know your Chinese numerals, too.

Let’s say I turn the wrong direction.  I know where North is because of the position of the sun on this blazing hot day, but the roads I’m on seem to be dead ending. 

Then I start noticing the street signs.  Blue street signs are especially helpful, because they point cars (and you) toward arterials. 

Once I follow the arrows to a through street (and now I’ve lost the sun so I really am confused), I  look at a detailed blue street sign.  The top line labels the street in Chinese and below it in pinyin…”Dong Feng Zhong Lu.”  (East wind middle street)  OK.  If I find that on my map, great, I’m good to go.  But where on Dongfeng Zhonglu am I, exactly, and should I turn left or right?

Here’s where the street sign gets even more helpful.  In smaller writing down below, the sign tells me which way to go (left or right) to get to the next intersecting arterial.  “Jianshe Damalu” is toward the West and “Jianshe Liumalu” is toward the East.  That’s literally, “Construction Big Horse Street” and “Construction Six Horse Street.”  With a little poetic license, I’ll call these Big Workhorse Street and Sixth Workhorse Street.  Here’s an example:

street sign

[This is a different street sign, saying you’re on Zhenhai street, and to your left you’ll meet up with Jiefang North Street, while to your right you’ll meet Xiao (little) North Street….the streets in the lower white part of the sign are perpendicular to the street in the blue portion.]

These parallel arterials have similar names because first, there’s  Big Horse Street.  The next small street over is Second Workhorse street.  It’s a dead end.  More parallel dead-end streets follow….Third Workhorse Street, and so on.  The Sixth Workhorse Street is another helpful through-street that I can follow North to the Garden Hotel.

If you visit Shamian Island (posted previously), you’ll note the same numbering system for the North-South streets there.  Don’t be confused by the numbers in the street names….they are not addresses, but indicators of sister streets parallel to a more well-known “big” street.

Hooray for nicely labeled street signs and detailed maps! 

If you don’t know any Chinese, the default action is to have someone write down the name of your destination on a piece of paper in Chinese, and then when you get lost, you can pull out the paper to ask for directions.

If your Chinese is better than mine, go to www.zuoche.com, which is a nifty website telling you how to get anywhere (in major cities in China) by bus, taxi, or subway.  You just type in your location and destination, et voila!  It gives you an estimate of how long your trip will take and how much the fares are likely to be.

Shamian Island (Guangzhou)

Shamian Island (pronounced “Shah-myen”) is a little section of Guangzhou separated by a bit of a moat from the rest of the city.  That is, it hangs out into the Pearl River, even though it’s not obvious if you look at a city map.  The U.S. Consulate is here (serving an area of China with a population of over 200 million!  Inconceivable!).  

The White Swan Hotel is also here — an interesting place, as it is filled with U.S. parents adopting Chinese babies and children.  There is some procedural reason (visa, immigration?) why they stay here in Guangzhou.  As such, the White Swan has a little neighborhood of shops selling baby and children-sized clothing (traditional, too), diapers, and some Western-style foods.

Guangzhou was the only port in China open to foreigners from 1757 to 1842, and Shamian Island retains some vestiges of that colonial history with rather handsome buildings, a charming French church, and so forth.  So a little cottage industry has appeared on the island….brides and grooms get their wedding photographs taken with some of these lovely buildings in the background.

Here’s a poor-quality photo of several brides lined up to get their picture taken (one wearing jeans underneath the dress):

Shamian brides photo

Another lucky couple:

Shamian wedding photo

La Dolce Vita Restaurant (delicious!) is located on the far Eastern edge of the island:

Shamian La Dolce Vita

Getting to Shamian Island is hard to describe in words.  Take the metro to Huangsha.  You have to go over a large pedestrian overpass to get to the island…if you end up crossing what looks like a small canal, (after the pedestrian overpass) that’s good.  The White Swan hotel tower can be seen toward the South.

Running in the Heat and Humidity of Guangzhou

Yeah, it’s hot here (August – September, that is).  I walk across campus, go shopping (always on foot), etc. — the heat is just a part of daily life.  My air conditioner in my apartment provides me with a much-needed escape.

But running in this?  Oy.  My first week here, the “feels like” index was above 100 degrees fahrenheit every single day.  Now, two weeks later, it is still there.  That is, weather.com has the “feels like” temperature at 102F or so, and accuweather.com has it at 113F today (their “real feel” temperature).   Whatever…that’s hot.  It doesn’t cool off much at night.  In the morning, it’s about 80, but super super humid.  So, when I step outside at dawn, it surprises me every day…”wow, it’s hot and humid this morning.”  Duh.  The humidity goes down as the day progresses, but the heat cranks up.  It’s inescapable!

So, much to my chagrin, I was able to jog only 8.3 miles (with some walking) last Sunday, when at home in Oregon, I was running 15-milers with ease every other Sunday.  🙁  That changes my marathon plans drastically.  In order to do the December 6th Macau marathon, I will have to work my long run up (gradually) from 8 miles, completing only one 20-miler prior to the race.  Gah!

In general, think “half” if you’re not used to this weather at all.  If your longest long run is 16 miles, think 8.  Bring water along, even for short runs.  Drink something with electrolytes earlier than you normally would.  Slow way, way down.

My face gets scarlet red after about 7 miles or after any intense effort.  I’m sure that the Chinese probably think I look like I’m about to explode (my face does feel like it’s going to explode).

Last Saturday I went on my first hash house harriers run…at 3pm in the afternoon!  Luckily, it involved lots of dead ends and standing around in confusion, so although it was hot, I didn’t die out there.  They are baba loco, by the way, those hhh-ers…and that’s all I’ll say about the run.  :]  I do have a picture, though.  The young men in the photo are sitting on blocks of ice.

9_12 My first hhh

As the fall progresses, it will cool down, and I am hoping my speed will improve.  Right now I’m running about 30 seconds/mile slower than normal for longer runs.  Besides my once/week speedwork, I am not doing any tempo work; good gawd no!  I hope this lack of tempo running won’t hurt me later on in the season, but oh well, that’s the way it goes.

Running Along the Pearl River in Guangzhou

Now, my university campus is a great place to run — its shaded paths, greenery, and size make it a very pleasant place to jog around.  There are two (two!) tracks right on campus — a wonderful old cinder/gravel track, in case you want to play Roger Bannister and recreate a sub-4 mile on that surface, and a more up to date rubber asphalt track.

I’ll get to the Pearl River eventually, I promise.

Both tracks, even at dawn, are well populated by joggers.  12 minutes per mile or so.  For me, I go to the track once/week for speedwork (well, speedwork for me means 440 yards/400m at about 1:50).  I felt really stupid the first time I did some 440 intervals because I felt like I was trying to be the Big Show-Off Foreigner, going so “fast.”  Oh well.

Recall from a previous post that every run features a Speed-Up Guy.  When I visited the rubber asphalt track the following week (which had even MORE people jogging around it — maybe 25?), a young man in camouflage army pants was apparently not going to let me beat him around the track, so he ran alongside me for 200m or so (this is rather disconcerting), and then, with 100m to go, put on a spectacular sprint to the finish line.  Yay!  Youdaman!  I didn’t see him do any more laps after that, but I still had a recovery lap and one more 400m repeat to go… 

OK, now to the Pearl River.  Cutting through the heart of downtown Guangzhou (did I mention that 14 million people live here?) is the Zhu Jiang.  At night, dinner boats cruise up and down the river, their flashy neon lights beckoning diners and tourists.  The skyscrapers and river promenade are also festive with neon lights — it’s just great!  At the North gate of campus, bordering the river, there are dance lessons every night; several different styles to choose from (cha-cha, modest belly dancing, disco, modern/ballet, etc.).  I estimated the other night that there were about 1000 people there learning dances or watching.

The broad river promenade extends from West to East Guangzhou, allowing a runner miles and miles and miles of traffic-free (and therefore traffic-light-free) running!  There is often a buffer zone of a park bordering the promenade, so you’re rarely next to a busy street, far from the maddening car exhaust. 

No car/truck exhaust, no traffic, no hassle!  It’s great!  At dawn, many many others are out there running; young and old, male and female.  And…same thing in the evening (sorry, I haven’t run at midday yet — I am not crazy — so I don’t know if there are people out there at midday running on the promenade).

Most of the bridges have bike and pedestrian access, so if you want to cross the river and run along the other side, there’s even more ground for you to cover; again, safe, scenic and easy.  Ersha Island (which looks like an amoeba on the map, directly across from Zhongshan University) is mostly parkland and mansions, which makes it ideal for a morning run.

Not counting circumnavigating Ersha Island (looks like maybe 3 miles around?), the total promenade available for pedestrians on both sides of the river appears to be about 11 miles.  However, occasionally the promenade is blocked (grrr).  I am still in the process of exploring exactly which sections are blocked and which aren’t, and how to get around the blocked sections.

What you see at 6am – 7am are people out there doing their calisthenics, taichi (also with swords and large fans sometimes), dancing, stretching, and so on.  I am continually amazed by the fitness level of the large numbers of retirees who are out there in the morning.  They are amazingly fit.  Once you see a 70-year-old doing high kicks and wave push-ups, you realize how comparatively doughy the U.S. population is.

Today I also saw swimmers.  I don’t think swimming in the Pearl River is such a great idea…   I also saw a guy hop over the railing, extend his long pole with a net, and scoop out a nice fish. 

One of my favorite sights while running on the promenade was several older men writing poetry on the promenade with long poles (with a rag dipped in water at the tip of the pole).  The poems disappeared as the water evaporated.   I mouthed some of the characters as I ran by, trying to read it (“mingbai wo….”) and one of the men noticed “hey!  She read ‘mingbai wo’!” 

Cool — I managed to read and understand something (I can’t read much Chinese).  Ironically, “mingbai wo” means “I understand” or “it is becoming clear to me.”  heh.

In a raging rainstorm last week, an older fellow yelled something happily to me — it contained the words “rain” and “good”, so I think he was probably saying “Running in this rain? Right on, lady!”  But shortly thereafter I cut the run short because the thunder and lightning was a little too intense.

Two caveats:  The surface and the heat.  The river promenade surface is very hard; wear new shoes with cushioning if you are planning to run this route often.  Many Chinese runners run in zero-cushion shoes, even dress shoes sometimes.    Wow.

And the heat?  I’ll save that for another post.

Detailed View of the Apartment at Zhongshan University

Perhaps some future faculty members might be interested in seeing what sort of accommodations are available for visiting scholars here…et voila.  I hope this description is useful.

I live on the 4th floor of a 4-storey building, Zi Jingyuan Hotel.  Some of the foreign scholars are housed here (others are elsewhere; I don’t know the system).  Staff members at the reception desk have some English facility.  I try to use my Chinese, but sometimes need their help translating.  There is a restaurant here in the same building, serving breakfast (dim sum!!), lunch and dinner.  It’s popular, inexpensive, and the food is good.  Much to my delight, there is a tiny “Quicky Mart” across the parking lot from us, with chocolate bars, the requisite sodas (including diet coke “Max”), instant noodles, beer & other Quicky Mart-type stuff….plus peanut butter, notebooks and mops.

My apartment has a bedroom with 2 beds, minimal bedding (recommend purchasing your own), a vanity, and a night table with a lamp and a direct line telephone.  I like the big window on one side (with door to a balcony), but wish I could put something up on the walls (from what I can tell, they are plaster and I can’t easily decorate them).  In addition to bedding, I’ll have to buy a cheap rug.  The air conditioner in the bedroom is great!  I have an internet connection here and can work on my laptop in air conditioned comfort.  By the way, the internet connection is fairly slow.  Pictures take a while to load, pdfs take a very long time, and I haven’t even tried to upload videos.

Bedroom, view #1:

9_9 new bedding

Bedroom view #2

9_9 vanity

Next up, the living room.  It has a dining room table, a sofa that splits into three chairs, a coffee table, a TV & console, an armoire, a bookshelf and a desk.  I bought a cheap plastic tablecloth and hangers for the armoire.

Living room view #1:

9_9 livingroom

Notice the table fan (came with the apartment)!  I use that every day to dry out clothing — notice the running shoes getting their fan treatment.  I love my 3-speed oscillating fan!  View #2 of the living/dining room:

9_9 livingdiningroom

OK, the kitchen is small and unremarkable.  It features a 2-burner gas stove, a mini fridge, a microwave and a water cooler thingie.  I buy a big water jug whenever I run out (about one/week and each one costs 12 yuan = $1.80).  The water is not potable so it’s important to have a water cooler.  My mini fridge is gutless, but the microwave and gas stove are stout-hearted appliances.

Yesterday, my 10th day here, I saw a cockroach in my kitchen!  Egads!  Well, if I see one roach only once every 10 days, that’s not the end of the world.  (He was very large, though.)  I bought all of the necessary cookware to stock the kitchen; a pot, a pan, a few dishes and cutlery.  Didn’t cost much.  For example, my saucepan was 20 yuan (about $3). 

9_9 kitchen

Finally, your basic bathroom — Western style toilet, shower (recommend buying a pole and shower curtain), and out of view of the camera, sink and washing machine.  To dry your laundry, you either hang it outside on the balcony as most normal people do, or hang it all over the apartment, as I do.  Things dry really quickly here, even though it’s humid.  I bought all the cleaning supplies and towels.  Recommend buying some more racks to put stuff in.  I also bought an iron, and use the chair for the bedroom vanity as my ironing board (with a towel thrown over it).  The iron cost $21 or so and works great!

9_9 bathroom

The entry way (not pictured) has a huge closet with a safe.

The apartment door sticks on humid mornings.  I can close it from the outside on those days by pressing on a certain point on the door.  However, if I’m in the apartment and want to close it, I can’t reach that spot, so I have to leave it somewhat ajar.  The humidity falls as the day goes on, and soon I can close the door.  When I depart at dawn to run, however, if I need to do my secret spot-press trick to close the door, I know it will be a humid run that day…

Every morning before 8am, someone comes by to sweep the outside stairway and pick up the trash I’ve set outside the door.  That’s convenient!  Cleaning service is available, as is laundry service, but I figured I can save a bit by doing these things myself (the laundry charges are a bit unreasonable, I thought).

Prospective Fulbrighters — note that housing is free (for the China program, that is — this may differ if you are posted in another country).  The only expenses I pay are for the water cooler jugs, as far as I know.  The Chinese host campus pays for these housing expenses, and the Fulbright program pays for my salary.

Sun Yat-Sen (Zhongshan) University — the campus

This campus is a tropical oasis in the middle of a city of 14 milllion residents and a province that manufactures a large percentage of what the world consumes…

It is, in short, a miraculous place.  Just writing this entry makes me realize I have failed miserably in capturing this beautiful scene on my camera.  Here’s the first little picture — the gate memorializes some students who took part in some revolutionary activity (maybe they died?  sorry; I don’t know the full details):

SYS gate 9_05

I have my work cut out for me, to show you the palm trees, the bamboo thickets, the ponds with water lilies, the pagodas…all quite extraordinary.  I think I was told that Sun Yat-Sen gave a famous speech in this building:

9_19 SYSU bldg palm trees

I like the History building’s 10 statues of revolutionary heros because they define both the impressive entrance to the building as well as the Chinese historical point of view.

Some heroes:

9_19 SYSU Heroes 2

 And the history building itself.  Note the “open book” in the architecture:

9_19 SYSU History Building

In addition to campus buildings (the most modern and well appointed of which is….the MBA building; as with all campuses everywhere!), there are dormitories and apartment buildings galore.  Picture your typical large university…now place housing there for *everyone* who works there; faculty and staff.  So, it’s a veritable academic metropolis.  As such, we have on campus several “malls” (streets lined with little shops) and an extensive open air market as well.  Oh, and cafeterias and restaurants all over the place! 

The extensive foliage on campus cools the air — I swear, it is 5 degrees (F) cooler here.  (When it’s over 100F, 5 degrees doesn’t make much difference, but oh well.)  Birds love this campus, too.  A north-south (mainly closed to car traffic) road links the South gate all the way through campus to the North gate at the Pearl River.

Here is the side of the Lingnan building, next to some Rong Shu (Banyan?) trees.  You can also see the north-south arterial here:

9_10 SYSU Lingnan banyan

Near the library is a readerboard with the daily newspaper…(solemn greetings to embattled print journalists everywhere…I love my daily newspaper back home!):

9_19 SYSU news readerboard

I hardly need to go off campus for anything.  Except, when I do, there’s plenty of shops outside the school gates and a subway station as well.   The West gate (about 2/3 mile walk) has the subway station (“ZhongDa”, short for “Zhongshan Daxue”, the university’s name).  The foreign student and scholar residence (Zi Jingyuan Hotel) is very close to the South gate. 

The subway system is brand new and the highest tech I’ve ever seen, with easy to understand instructions in English, everything spotless and pretty, electronic ads to gawk at on the subway itself, etc.  To go across town, it costs me 3 to 5 yuan — about 45 to 70 cents, depending on how far I’m going.

My apartment at the Zi Jingyuan Hotel is clean and big.  Details about the apartment (for the benefit of future faculty members) are provided in a separate post.

Oh, and by the way…Zhongshan University actually has four campuses.  This is the main old one.  A newer, just as large campus has been built on an island in East Guangzhou that houses several universities…it is a University Megacenter, according to the street signs.  Professors joke that Zhong (middle) Dong (East) campus (shorthand for Zhongshan Daxue East campus) is a good name because the relative lack of mature trees makes that campus very hot, like the Middle East.  (hyuck hyuck)  I will be teaching my class there in the Middle East, starting Sept 16th. 

Anyway, back to the main campus.  On the first night I was here, I did some unpacking, then was whisked away to a nice dinner at one of the campus restaurants.  I don’t remember which one…I was bleary that night.  I didn’t see the campus at all, but knew enough to run North to the Pearl River the next morning.

In the morning, I put my running gear on and set out to run to the river.  It was my first look at campus.  I thought…”ah, I’m a runner again” and “oh my…I am lucky to be on this campus!”

Early morning 10-miler in Beijing, August 31

OK, it was 9.9 according to my Garmin, but I did have a little trouble reading the Garmin because it had switched to Chinese characters.  (I’m joking…Garmin worked beautifully.)

Determined to reach Tiantan, I followed the correct route this time, West on Guangqumenwai Road, then South on Qinian Dajie.  The major arterials in Beijing are all clearly marked with pinyin, so they are easy to read and follow.  Moreover, there are signs alerting drivers what the next upcoming arterial is…

I left at dawn — 5:30 am — and traffic of all types (pedestrian, cars, bikes) was light.  When I arrived at Tiantan, however, I realized I’d messed up by not bringing money along.  Stupid.  Whenever running in a foreign country, always bring money!  There was an entrance fee, and I couldn’t get in…all for the lack of approximately 45 cents…

So I circumnavigated Tiantan Park, which is quite large (a few miles around), and headed back to the hotel for a total of 9.9 miles.  The return trip was not quite as peaceful, as the morning traffic was well underway.  I have been to Tiantan before (in 1984), so it wasn’t a huge loss, but drat, anyhow.  As the sun came up, I didn’t feel like I needed my sunglasses, because the particulate matter in the air provided somewhat of a shield from the early morning sunshine.

The following couple of mornings I ran a few miles on the hotel treadmill.  It was obvious from the 27th floor that the particulate matter in the air had increased, so I thought it was fine to stay indoors. 

I hope nobody reads this hoping to get tips on running in Beijing, as I really got only one decent run in, plus was unable to make it to any key sights from my hotel (which was a bit off the main drag, in East Beijing).  I guess the one takeaway was to recommend running prior to 6:30am, when traffic worsens.

On the run, I saw quite a few men (especially older men) jogging.  I saw men carrying bird cages (to go to a park and meet their friends who also have birds in cages…), and quite a few people doing some morning calisthenics, including this weird form of push-up I’ll call “waves.”  Very impressive! 

And I encountered my first “Speed-Up Guy.”  When running a long run (in “normal” weather, perhaps 65 degrees or so), I run a leisurely 10 minute per mile pace.  Many people run quite slowly here, so 10 minutes means I’m passing a fair number of people, albeit slowly.   So, as I passed this one fellow, I guess he didn’t like that idea much and speeded up and made sure he kept ahead of me from there on out. 

Some Speed-Up Guys are able to hold the faster pace, while others start lagging again, and then I have to pass them again (sigh).  I don’t like to play this back and forth game; I just want to run…  The reason I mention this is because practically every run features a Speed-Up Guy.

The Fulbright Lecturer Orientation in Beijing, Aug 30-Sept 3

The U.S. Embassy really knows how to throw an orientation.  Every meal was a feast, snack breaks featured umpteen different types of cookies and cakes and obsequious coffee service, and the line-up of speakers was amazing. 

Day 2 featured a tour of the Drum Tower (69 steep steps!), a rickshaw ride in a historic district (utterly beguiling scenery, despite some Western democratic discomfort with the whole rickshaw idea), and a tour of a preserved hutong and mansion with elaborate garden.   Here I am in my dorky hat, the hat I paid full price for at the Arts & Crafts store at Wangfujing (much to the salesperson’s delight).  I swore never again to pay full price (which is silly; I often just don’t have the energy to negotiate).

9_1lake1

Day 2’s evening was capped with a trip to the Minzu (Ethnic Minority) Hotel, where we dined compliments of the Chinese Ministry of Education.  From the windows of the bus, we were able to see just how astounding Beijing’s transformation has been — every building on Chang An Avenue seemed to be a new architectural marvel! 

The buffet dinner was a feast indeed, and we had a good time talking afterwards as we waited for the signal for our departure.  JUST as the signal appeared, I had discovered strawberry ice cream at the buffet (hadn’t found it before)!  What to do — keep eating strawberry ice cream and miss the bus?  I managed to finish it and scooted out the door in time.  The following Beijing Noir photo was from our return trip:

9_1TAMatnight

 Focusing on food and architecture so far…I have neglected the actual orientation schedule.  We learned about health, various other issues regarding living in China, the view from the student and Chinese teacher side, about Chinese-US diplomatic relations, and so on.  I took copious notes and have referred back to them several times. 

Here’s our meeting room.  You’d never guess from this shot what was happening in the suite of rooms next door….that’s right; a fashion lingerie trade show!  Complete with astoundingly thin and gorgeous Russian teenage lingerie models!  12 frumpy professors and assorted Fulbright orientation speakers looked on in amusement as the models, announcers, and various trade show organizers and minions hustled about.

8_31hotelconfrm

Very sorry — I did not get a photo of the teenage Russian lingerie models.

Capping our amazing stay in Beijing, the Embassy staff took us to a Tibetan restaurant  — yay, another 20-course banquet!  The food was amazing (even though we really didn’t want any food, no more! Please!).  The entertainment — Tibetan songs, dances and a fashion show — also fun to watch.

Jane_at_Table

That’s Jane, my Zhongshan University liaison in the yellow sweater…and here is Jane dancing…

Janedancing

More on Jane later — she is a gem!  Finally, the Tibetan fashion show:

Tibetfashion3

Tibetfashion2

Day 1: Beijing (on my own) August 30, 2009

(Not to worry; I’m not going to blog separately about each and every day…): 

I had arrived a day early to make sure I didn’t miss the opening dinner.  First order of the day was to run — I asked the 4th floor staff to direct me how to run to Tiantan (Temple of Heaven) and they just laughed; it sounded quite impossible.  The concierge, however, pulled out a map and indicated a direct route on some major streets. 

It is my theory that 90% of getting lost happens within 100 ft of the hotel.  Because…you don’t know which way to turn when you exit the hotel.  Do you turn right, right as you exit, or do you turn right at the end of the driveway?  It’s never clear.  So anyway, I ran a couple of miles down the wrong and very busy street, then self-corrected and ran a couple of miles in the correct direction, all the way dodging rush hour pedestrians, bikes and cars.  The car exhaust on these busy arterials was pretty bad. 

An inauspicious start to running in China, and I didn’t reach Tiantan.  Much improvement to come!

Then I set out by taxi (lazy me — the subways work fine in Beijing) to Wangfujing (a big shopping district) to relive my memories of 1984.  It was vaguely familiar, but so grown up!  I ate at (I admit) a Pizza Hut.  The food was fine…what fascinated me was the crowds of young Chinese, waiting in line to get a table and ordering up dish after dish after dish…Wow.  If any businessperson doubts the future of commerce in China, let him or her come to the Pizza Hut at Wangfujing.

I then walked to the Forbidden City, accompanied by an art student who struck up a conversation with me, chatting about the history of the Forbidden City, this & that building’s significance, etc.  I knew something was up, but let him lead me down a side street to…the gallery where he worked.  A smooth-talking salesman took over from there, giving detailed descriptions of each scroll.  I was not in a scroll-buying mood (plus, had ZERO space in my luggage), so I eventually escaped from the high-pressure sales and continued on to the Forbidden City.  I didn’t pay the entrance fee, but just admired the outer courtyard, and of course, the iconic view facing Tiananmen Square:

8_30Tiananmen

From there, I walked back to Wangfujing, took a taxi back to the hotel (20 yuan — about $3), and went to our opening dinner, Banquet #1, Beijing Duck!   A naive group we were — we ate heartily, thinking that future meals would be more simple.   Hahaha….