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Art in Society Field Guide Subject: 3D Printing + Fashion

3D Printing + Fashion

When I was first introduced to the idea and options of 3D printing, I was entering my first year of undergraduate architecture school 4 years ago. 3D printing seemed to be a daunting, time-consuming task for the more advanced students whose projects were so technologically complex they could only be physically represented through a 3D print. Currently 3D printers have become so common in that elementary and middle school students can access this technology at school and output any object that they desire. The most interesting aspect of advanced 3D print technology to me is how it has become integrated into the fashion world. For so long 3D printers have only been able to produce small to medium-sized objects that were only meant for viewing. Now, we can literally fuse humans and 3D printing through fashion.

I want to represent the stages of 3D printing in fashion, from the beginnings as accessories such as bracelets and bags, to full length gowns. Because while 3D printing has only been around in the fashion industry for a few years, the advances in possibilities technology-wise and fashion-wise have increased exponentially. The possibility of creating any type of shoe or bag desired at home is becoming a reality for consumers and designers alike.

The fashion industry is utilizing 3D printing mostly in the high-end, conceptual and couture world. Designers such as Iris van Herpen have been at the forefront of carving this path, but architects and product designers have begun dipping into this world to create their own wearable 3D printed pieces. I want to compare and contrast the types of individuals who are participating in this art form, and discuss the advantages, if any, of being an architectural designer in 3D fashion versus a traditional fashion designer. Although, anyone who is attempting 3D printed fashion at the moment is likely not “traditional” in any sense.

I also want to explore the advantages of these emerging alien products. Can 3D printed clothing be more affordable than fabric? After the design is modeled in 3D, all of the work is done by the machine itself. This can produce hundreds of identical wearable pieces, but would this actually provide any monetary advantages? Also, how is craft of fashion itself affected by the abilities of this technology? High-end fashion can take days to finish one piece depending on the complexity of the design, but then again so can a 3D print. Can 3D printing be viewed as an easy way to achieve a complicated design? Or is it considered to be as couture as a hand-sewn gown? I also want to discover how the relationship between a human and a 3D printed garment is different than that of a traditionally constructed piece. I find the duality of 3D printed fashion very interesting in that it can stand on it’s own as an art object but also serve a purpose as clothing.

The specific 3D printed pieces I want to focus on are:

Iris van Herpen: She is a highly conceptual Dutch designer that has been experimenting with 3D printing and fashion for 5 years. She has produced a wide array of designs, but I specifically want to focus on her SS 16 show at Paris Fashion Week in which she 3D printed a dress live on the runway.

Francis Bitoni Studio: This is an architecture firm that explores innovative processes with technology. Their most notable work is a black, 3D printed dress they created for Dita von Teese. He has now 3D printed an entire jewelry line.

Project Runway: The fashion design show just recently released an episode in which the designers had to use 3D printing in conjunction with fabric to create an avant-garde look. Before this episode aired, a designer from season 12 incorporated 3D printed accessories for his New York Fashion Week final collection. He has an architectural background and is also deaf, which heightens his other senses and inspires him to play with 3D printing and clothing.

Danit Peleg: A recent fashion school graduate from Shenkar in Israel. She 3D printed her entire graduate collection from home. Her contributions to the 3D printed fashion world are larger than one single piece like most designers. She also spent months finding the exact right plastic to execute the looks to allow for comfortable wear. She also incorporated the home printing idea, which would be an ultimate goal for fashion lovers and consumers. What if you could buy a file, download it, and print an outfit for your next outing? Awesome.

Adidas: They just released the “Futurecraft” sole, a customizable 3D printed sole. This pulls 3D printing and fashion into a more easily accessible market, different from the other examples. It also puts out the idea of producing a shoe on the spot that fits the customer’s needs. This is also the most utilitarian example. By being an athletic application, 3D printing can have very specific advantages or disadvantages as compared to a more artistic application.