Nostalgia and How The Past is Marketed

Nostalgia and How The Past is Marketed

Background

Nostalgia, and how it presents

In 1688, the term nostalgia was coined by Johannes Hofer, a Swiss physician, who defined it as a “morbid longing to return to one’s home or native country, severe homesickness considered as a disease” (Etymonline). In the years since then, nostalgia has lost its association with mental illness, and its definition has greatly expanded in scope. Per current understanding, nostalgia refers to a sentimental yearning for the past, and a desire to return to the perceived happiness of an earlier place or time (Dictionary.com, 2019). This is a complex and powerful psychological phenomenon, which can stem from a wide variety of experiences and ideologies. Generally, though, characteristics of nostalgia include a constructed vision of some facet of the past, and a belief that it was better, in at least some respect, than the present (Smith and Campbell 2017).

In their 2003 book Beyond the Ruins: The Meanings of Deindustrialization, authors Jefferson Cowie and Joseph Heathcott describe the phenomenon they named “smokestack nostalgia.” In its original context, smokestack nostalgia refers to the phenomenon observed in regards to the immediate aftermath deindustrialization, wherein former industrial workers would romanticize and historicize the work done in factories, mines, and other industrial job sites. With the romantic veneer of nostalgia, workers focused on their memories of job security, laborer camaraderie, and working class pride, seemingly disregarding the fact that it was hard, grueling, and often dangerous work which destroyed people’s health, and resulted in many laborer deaths (Strangleman 2013).

Academic discourse on the subject of nostalgia largely paints it in a negative light, as maudlin and often reactionary. Certainly, conservative politicians frequently appeal to nostalgia and a perceived values of the past, seen with Margaret Thatcher, Ronald Reagan, and Donald Trump, among others (Gentry 2014, Behler et al. 2021). Like the former industrial workers and smokestack nostalgia, this reactionary nostalgia stems from economic anxiety, and the perceived threat of out-groups. There is also, parallel to this, a strong element of nationalism in these reactionary appeals to the past, seen most obviously with Donald Trump’s recent presidential campaign slogan: “Make America great again.”

On its own, however, nostalgia is a neutral, or frequently positive emotion. A 2006 study by Wildschut et al. concluded that nostalgia “bolsters social bonds, increases positive self-regard, and generates positive affect.” A connection to the past can promote cultural identity, provide comfort, and provide context for navigating the world.

To this point, if nostalgia can stem from reactionary politics, can it also be used to push progressive social values and political agendas? Smith and Campbell (2017) discuss the idea of progressive nostalgia in their paper ‘Nostalgia for the future’: memory, nostalgia and the politics of class. The authors describe progressive nostalgia as critically contextualizing the present through an understanding of the past. To return to the idea of smokestack nostalgia, the glorification of an industrial past might result in xenophobic and anti-immigrant reactions, seen with the “stealing our jobs” line of rhetoric common in conservative politics. However, it might also result in a critical response to comparative lack of bargaining power that labor unions currently have, or the financial stability that many families were able to maintain in the postwar era, in the face of a skyrocketing cost of living.

Both of these ideas ultimately stem from an idealization of the past (often disregarding, for example, the racism and exclusionary policies of the 1950s), and Smith and Campbell acknowledge that there is not a sharp line dividing reactionary and progressive nostalgia, and that the two are often intertwined. However, the way they divide the two is by determining if the root of the sentiment is simply to return to a “better” past, versus using aspects of the past as a framework for looking to the future.

The focus of this analysis is not industrial heritage, but interior design, and how products are marketed to consumers using nostalgia. However, having a framework of understanding of where nostalgia stems from, emotionally and psychologically, and the ways it can manifest are crucial for understanding the decisions and marketing strategies at play.

Nostalgia marketing and interior design

The original goal of this analysis was to examine the commonly observed belief that interior design products, including appliances, decor, and especially furniture are not made as well as they were in the past, and the ways nostalgia flavors this impression (Hartman 2023, Singh 2024, Vlamis 2024). In many cases, the decline in furniture manufacturing quality is empirically measurable, as seen with Cooper et al’s 2021 analysis, Furniture lifetimes in a circular economy: a state of the art review, which pointed to the use of less durable materials and marketing decisions to favor short product lifespans, prompting consumers to buy replacement products more frequently than they would with furniture which was made from more durable, repairable material. This is in contrast to the common production processes used up until about the 1980s, wherein furniture was largely manufactured domestically (Mullin 2020), and used more durable, high-quality materials such as solid wood or wood veneer, even for pieces which were mass manufactured and targeted at the middle class demographic (Cooper at al. 2021).

On the other hand, the rhetorical talking point of “they just don’t make it like they used to” can easily blend into the much more reactionary “reject modernity, embrace tradition,” a sentiment which is primarily an internet meme (Know Your Meme 2020), but reveals a traditionalist, fascist-adjacent if not outright fascist ideology with regards to culture, gender, religion, art, and most relevant to this analysis, architecture and design, as seen in figure 1.

Figure 1. Image posted to r/GreatBritishMemes by a deleted user, titled “traditional architecture”

A goal of this analysis was to determine if there was a specific time period in which marketers began to use this nostalgia to evoke the past, both stylistically and in terms of quality, and how the type of marketing changed over time in response to the historical context of the advertisement. This also required a deeper look into nostalgia marketing, and the different ways this is achieved by marketing.

In the 2024 literature review by Dam, Hartmann, and Brunk titled Marketing the past: a literature review and future directions for researching retro, heritage, nostalgia, and vintage, the authors discussed different types of marketing which appeal to the past, and the strategies for each.

Their broad categories were:

1. Retro, which is a purely aesthetic fusion of past and present, and uses the visuals of the past, updated to be in line with present expectations of performance and functionality. A few contemporary examples of retro interior design products can be seen with Ikea’s revival of products from their past catalogues, or with the design of luxury kitchen appliances from brands such as Smeg, which uses an aesthetic reminiscent of streamline modern design.

Figure 2. Screenshot of Ikea.com, 2025, titled “Nytillverkad collection: vintage IKEA, reimagined”

Figure 3. Screenshot of Smeg.com, showing a product page for their retro-style refrigerator product

According to Dam, Hartmann, and Brunk (2024), the marketing appeal in retro product design is to provide comfort to consumers by appealing and connecting to the past that they know, “thus, retro marketing can momentarily reassure consumers by sending them back to an imagined space of moral certainty and romance while at the same time fostering feelings of uniqueness, newness, and exclusivity.” Retro products provide stability and resolution to the tension between past and present.

2. Heritage brands, broadly speaking, leverage brand reputation and the perception of authenticity. The longevity of the brand (or at least the brand name) carries an implicit assumption of quality and consumer trust (Dam, Hartmann, and Brunk 2024). A phenomenon more tailored to furniture is that heritage is used to refer to the style or design of the furniture, rather than the specific brand, though the two may often be intertwined (Ettema 1982). In either case, heritage furniture carries associations of quality craftsmanship, durable materials, and (often, but not always) a historicist design character. A few examples of contemporary heritage furniture marketing include high-end design companies such as Vitra, or tradition and craftsmanship-oriented pieces, such as the various distributors of Amish furniture, shown in figures 4-5.

Figure 4. Screenshot of Vitra.com, showing the product page for the 1959 chair by Verner Panton

Figure 5. Screenshot of Amishfurniturefactory.com, from the homepage

Heritage furniture, particularly in cases like Vitra’s, are associated with authenticity. An authentic Eames lounge chair from Herman Miller, for example, is considerably more valuable than a superficially similar knockoff, as seen in figures 6-7.

Figure 6. Screenshot of Hermanmiller.com, showing the product page for the Eames lounge chair

Figure 7. Screenshot of Wayfair.com, showing the product page for an Eames lounge chair knockoff

While part of this is certainly the quality of the materials and the craftsmanship, the perceived authenticity of the genuine Herman Miller chair also adds to its value. As a side note, the images for the knockoff listing appear to be AI-generated, adding to the perceptual gap in quality between the two.

An additional wrinkle in defining heritage, as it comes to furniture, is that brand names might be bought and sold, and manufacturers using lower-quality material and craftsmanship techniques might use the brand name recognition to establish consumer trust, while selling an inferior product to that which was produced under that brand name in the past. This can be seen with Broyhill. The company was a major player in the mid–century American furniture manufacturing business, and produced a number of very popular and well-known designs, one of which is depicted in figure 8.

Figure 8. Broyhill Brasilia walnut dresser, 1960

After a series of bankruptcies, the Broyhill brand name and trademark was sold multiple times, eventually coming to land with Big Lots in 2019 (Hartman 2023), which is now also undergoing bankruptcy and restructuring, leaving the future of even the brand name uncertain (Kroll Restructuring Administration 2024). Regardless, the quality and design character of Broyhill furniture which gained it its reputation in the mid 20th century is no more, and only the Broyhill name remains. A similar story can be seen with the Lane Furniture Company, another American furniture manufacturer founded in 1912, which has also declared bankruptcy and sold its name and trademark (Moss 2023). In these cases, as well as others, the heritage label is based on perceived brand quality, regardless of actual quality, and rely on the nostalgic idea of furniture being of generally better quality in the past.

3. Vintage, as a term, refers to pieces which were manufactured in the past, and carry a material connection to that time. Like heritage brands, vintage pieces are associated with authenticity, but to a greater degree, and with the added perception of being unique, or even “the original” as opposed to a replica – even an authorized replica. Returning to the example of the Eames Lounge Chair, seen in figures 6-7, even the authentic piece from Herman Miller, produced new to order, carries less value than an “original,” period-produced piece, which is listed for approximately 2x the price of a new chair, shown in figure 9.

Figure 9. Screenshot of 1stdibs.com, showing a listing for an Eames lounge chair produced in the 1970s.

According to Dam, Hartmann, and Brunk (2024), vintage pieces allow the consumer to have a personal, meaningful relationship to the past. Sentimentality and exclusivity are common tactics used in the marketing of vintage items. Due to the nature of vintage pieces as, by definition, out of production and limited, the nature of vintage marketing is very different from the new products which fall into the retro or heritage categories, and much less likely to be seen in the case studies from The House Beautiful. Nevertheless, this type of nostalgia marketing is culturally significant, particularly when examining the idea that people largely perceive furniture of the past as being higher quality than newly produced options from budget brands. In a similar vein, platforms such as Chairish or 1stdibs, for reselling vintage home goods have grown substantially since 2020, particularly among millennials, in part due to association with the sustainability of buying secondhand (The Ethos Editors 2023).

Objective and Methodology

This analysis examines several research questions:

  1. How is nostalgia leveraged in advertisements for interior design products?
  2. Is there an identifiable shift in how marketing uses nostalgia in response to current (for the time) events?
  3. Is there an identifiable difference between marketing which targets reactionary vs. progressive nostalgia?
    1. If so, can these also be tied to historical context?

Case studies consist of advertisements published in The House Beautiful magazine, spanning from 1905-2015. At least one ad per decade has been selected, more during particularly tumultuous periods during the 20th century (e.g. world war 2). Advertisements which were considered eligible for use as case studies had to meet at least one of the following criteria:

  1. Products designed using historicist style, wherein the historicism was a major part of the intended appeal
  2. Glorification/idealization of history
  3. References to craftsmanship of the past
  4. Sentimental appeal to the past

There is a caveat to criterion 1 in that ads which feature products designed in a historicist style, but do not explicitly harken to that history in the verbiage, have been excluded from analysis. An example of this kind of advertisement is shown in figure 10, for reference:

Figure 10. An advertisement from the January 1969 edition of House Beautiful

In this case, while the pictured piece of furniture is historicist in style, the text indicates that the intended appeal of the product is that is is French Provincial in style, rather than directly calling on the past as part of the marketing. While there is likely an element of idealization of history being leveraged in ads such as this, the selected case study ads reference the past in more direct ways.

The selected case study advertisements have been roughly categorized by the type of nostalgia marketing that seems to be the most prominent element in design and presentation (retro, heritage, vintage, or general nostalgia) and analyzed within their historical context.

Case Studies and Analysis

1900s

Figure 11. An advertisement from the October 1905 edition of House Beautiful

Category: Heritage

This advertisement calls out specific events in American history, and glorifies that history by declaring that the products are “reproduction[s] … of the furniture used by the forefathers.”

This ad, as well as many others which were observed during research but not selected for analysis, depicts reproductions of 18th century furniture, and ties this style directly to what seems to be interpreted as a golden age of American history, and leveraging both nostalgia and nationalism in these types of ads.

1910s

Figure 12. An advertisement from the June 1911 edition of House Beautiful

Category: Heritage

This advertisement, interestingly, directly compares their material (“old hickory”) with popular material choices of the day (wicker, willow, painted wood), stating that it is more durable than these new materials. This is at least one case of the “they just don’t make it like they used to” sentiment going back at least as far as 1911.

Figure 13. An advertisement from the April 1916 edition of House Beautiful

Category: Heritage

This ad emphasizes fidelity and authenticity in their reproductions of historical designs, leveraging one of the hallmarks of heritage design. The desirability of these historical designs is taken as a given.

1920s

Figure 14. An advertisement from the November 1923 edition of House Beautiful

Category: Heritage

This ad appeals to the consumer with a direct and personal connection to American history, promising an accurate reproduction of historical objects. It makes a stong association between owning a piece of this history and the idea of being perceived as “cultured.”

Figure 15. An advertisement from the November 1923 edition of House Beautiful

Category: Heritage

This advertisement calls on the historical applications of walnut, and associates the material with tradition, a connection to a lost (idealized) history, and quality.

1930s

Figure 16. An advertisement from the February 1935 edition of House Beautiful

Category: Heritage

This ad romanticises the past, with specific attention to the idea of the Grand Tour, creating an association between historicist styles and the perceived luxury of the English upper class during the 18th century.

Figure 17. An advertisement from the March 1935 edition of House Beautiful

Category: Heritage

This ad highlights a perception of artisans of the past as producing higher quality work than current craftspeople/manufacturers (present company excluded, of course). This reinforces the idea that the “they just don’t make it like they used to” sentiment is not a new phenomenon.

1940s

Figure 18. An advertisement from the January 1942 edition of House Beautiful

Category: Heritage

Much like the ad shown in figure 14, makes a direct emotional appeal to the consumer’s nationalist feelings towards a constructed ideal American history, framing the product as something that was used by “heroic” historical figures (George Washington, Paul Revere).

Figure 19. An article featuring furniture products from the February 1942 edition of House Beautiful

Category: General nostalgia

This article is not an ad placed by the manufacturer, but does feature and highlight specific products, and showcases an interesting perspective, and as such was included in these case studies as an exception. It demonstrates a desirability of the functionality of modernist design, in terms of modularity, efficiency, and flexibility of layout, while also calling out to traditional design aesthetics, describing them as “warm and cheery.” This attitude displays anxiety regarding modernity and the war, and an implication of longing to return to what might be seen as friendlier or simpler times.

Figure 20. An advertisement from the November 1942 edition of House Beautiful

Category: Retro

This ad depicts a product which romanticizes the antebellum south, as well as specifically referencing the confederacy. In a phenomenon similar to smokestack nostalgia, the perceived sophistication and charm of the south are highlighted, while the negative aspects (vast inequality, widespread poverty, and enslavement) are not part of this constructed past.

Figure 21. An advertisement from the March 1944 edition of House Beautiful

Category: Heritage

This ad appeals strongly to nationalism, referencing the war effort, and uses the tag line “keep up the American way of living” to call back to an idealized “normalcy” of pre-war American life, which this product, according to the ad, is consistent with.

Figure 22. An advertisement from the March 1944 edition of House Beautiful

Category: Heritage

This ad appeals to tradition through the use of specific references to Christianity. It calls out craftsmanship of the past and brand history as being associated with morality and steadiness, in contrast to current times, which are tumultuous and frightening.

The ads published in House Beautiful during the years that the USA was involved in world war 2 are not unique in their heavy push toward nationalism in addition to nostalgia, but the amount of nationalism on display, as well as the general concentration of nationalistic ads both increased. This type of advertising, combined with the glorification of the past, specifically appeal to reactionary nostalgia.

1950s

Figure 23. An advertisement from the April 1956 edition of House Beautiful

Category: Heritage

There are a few pieces to unpack with this ad. First, whereas in the first half of the 20th century, historicist styles and period reproductions tended to focus on furniture of the 18th century. Here, furniture from the early 1900s is seen as desirable and nostalgic instead. Furthermore, some of the verbiage, emphasizing the advertised product’s solid wood construction, may be a reaction to the increase use of engineered materials and mass production, and a perceived decline in quality in the furniture industry.

1960s

Figure 24. An advertisement from the August 1967 edition of House Beautiful

Category: Heritage

The reference to “old time values” in this ad indicate a preference for a past in which things were more affordable, or at least perceived so. This, combined with the reference to early American history and heritage, may be a reaction to a quickly changing society, and economic anxieties associated with the time period (U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics 2024).

1970s

Figure 25. An advertisement from the January 1972 edition of House Beautiful

Category: Retro

The visual juxtaposition between the Greek-inspired product and an elegant, classical interior conflates the two, with the aim of having the consumer project their positive associations with a constructed/idealised version of the past onto the product.

Figure 26. An advertisement from the February 1972 edition of House Beautiful

Category: Heritage

This ad associates historicist styles with sophistication and maturity, and presents the product as timeless, in opposition to being trendy. It is during this time period that advertisements begin to use “timelessness” as a point of appeal more frequently, particularly for products with a historicist design, leveraging a romanticised and consistent past in opposition to an ever-changing, confusing present.

1980s

Figure 27. An advertisement from the January 1981 edition of House Beautiful

Category: Heritage

The 1980s show a swing back into nationalism in advertising, consistent with marked economic, social, and political conservatism in the USA, concurrent with the Reagan administration (Encyclopedia.com 2019). In this ad, reproductions of 18th century furniture return to the spotlight, highlighting authenticity and the perceived superior craftsmanship of the past.

Figure 28. An advertisement from the March 1981 edition of House Beautiful

Category: Heritage

Similarly to the product depicted in figure 20, this ad romanticizes the “grace and elegance” of the antebellum south, emphasizing aesthetics and disregarding and of the negative aspects of this time period.

Figure 29. An advertisement from the April 1981 edition of House Beautiful

Category: Heritage

This ad leverages ideas of authenticity and tradition, and shows a designs of an Art Nouveau style, among others.

Figure 30. An article featuring products from the June 1986 edition of House Beautiful

Category: Heritage

The products featured in this article use ideas similar to those seen in the arts and crafts movement, with a perceived superiority of traditional methods of craftsmanship, including artistic expression and material quality. This may be a reaction against increased use of synthetic materials and mass production. It was during the 1980s that American manufacturing began to steadily decline, with more manufacturing being outsourced (U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics 2024).

Figure 31. An advertisement from the July 1988 edition of House Beautiful

Category: Heritage

Consistent with the increase in observed nationalism in advertising during the 1980s, this ad creates an emotional appeal to the consumer by forging a connection between their products and a “heroic” figure of American history, Thomas Jefferson.

1990s

Figure 32. An advertisement from the July 1991 edition of House Beautiful

Category: Heritage

Much like ads of previous decades, the manufacturer of colonial-era inspired historicist furniture here uses nationalism and the perceived elegance of the past to appeal to consumers.

Figure 33. An advertisement from the July 1991 edition of House Beautiful

Category: General nostalgia

In addition to the type of advertising for historical styles seen throughout these case studies, the 1990s show the beginning of a trend towards leveraging personal nostalgia – in this case, sentimentality for family members.

2000s

Figure 34. An advertisement from the July 2006 edition of House Beautiful

Category: General nostalgia

Many people associate their childhoods with less complexity in their lives, and more whimsy and wonder. This ad uses that personal nostalgia, targeting consumers who want to experience those feelings again.

While it is difficult to prove a negative, it is worth mentioning that ads which leveraged a glorified depiction of the past became harder to find in House Beautiful, beginning in the 2000s. This may indicate a broader shift in marketing during this time period, or it may be more specific to how interior design products.

2010s

Figure 35. An article featuring products from the April 2015 edition of House Beautiful

Category: Retro

This article features a design motif, and calls out several historical applications of it, including Elsie de Wolfe in American history. This posits this design feature as being “timeless,” similarly to how the historicist style in figure 26 is depicted in opposition to trend cycles. A similar marketing strategy can be seen in figure 36 as well.

Figure 35. An advertisement from the October 2015 edition of House Beautiful

Category: Retro

This ad leverages the past and the idea of timelessness by directly juxtaposing historicist and contemporary imagery.

Figure 37. An advertisement from the October 2015 edition of House Beautiful

Category: Retro

In contrast to previous decades, for which the historicist styles most heavily depicted as worthy of nostalgia were those of the 1700s, the 2010s show a marked increase in appealing to mid-century Modernist styles, including references to a perception of better quality construction during that time. This further emphasizes the idea that “they just don’t make it like they used to” is a persistent idea with regards to nostalgia and perception of the past, and that this idea shifts with the times to incorporate a changing world.

Conclusions

The first research question for this analysis regarded how nostalgia is used in advertising for interior design products. Overall, at least during the 20th century, the overwhelming majority of these ads featured products which fell into the “heritage” category of nostalgia marketing, capitalising on a glorified view of the past, particularly American history, and often highlighting a perception that craftsmanship was superior during previous eras. Somewhat in contrast with initial expectations, the sentiment of “they just don’t make it like they used to” did not emerge in response to the measurable decline in the quality of furniture during the past several decades (Cooper et al. 2021), but has been present throughout the examined time periods. This validates the idea of nostalgia as being sentimental, and based on a constructed and idealized version of the past, which shifts as the present progresses.

While some types of nostalgia-leveraging advertisements were quite consistent throughout most of the case studies, specifically those for 18th century reproduction furniture, there were certainly observable trends and shifts in the depiction of nostalgic products over time, most notably going into the digital era of the 2000s and beyond. During this time period, overt historicism and idealization of history declined, and it became more common to see historicist styles be labeled as “timeless.”

With regards to the framework of reactionary vs progressive nostalgia, many ads which appeal to reactionary nostalgia can be identified, particularly during periods of intense nationalism and conservative ideology, such as world war 2, and the 1980s. It is not easy to identify any cases which specifically call on progressive nostalgia, though many of the ads examined might be considered neutral in this regard. Certainly, nostalgia is not a psychological phenomenon belonging to only one side of the political aisle.

An interesting direction for future analysis might be to compare the broad trends in interior design products to other types of advertising, such as fashion or technology, to better understand how nostalgia was used in marketing widely, versus in industry-specific ways.

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House Beautiful Magazine, various issues (cited in text), courtesy of archive.org

IKEA. 2024. “Nytillverkad Vintage IKEA Collection.” IKEA. 2024. https://www.ikea.com/us/en/cat/nytillverkad-collection-62094/.

Smeg. 2025. “Refrigerator Retro-Style.” Smeg.com. 2025. https://www.smeg.com/us/products/FAB50URPB3.

Vitra. 2018. “Panton Chair Classic | Official Vitra® Online Shop US.” Vitra.com. 2018. https://www.vitra.com/en-us/product/details/panton-chair-classic.

Wayfair. 2025. “Wayfair.” Wayfair. 2025. https://www.wayfair.com/furniture/pdp/corrigan-studio-genuine-leather-swivel-lounge-chair-with-ottoman-and-solid-wood-frame-mid-century-modern-accent-chair-for-home-w112030791.html?piid=68408672.

Superficial Design: Designing without Real Cultural Understanding

Superficial Design: Designing without Real Cultural Understanding

Summary: The magazine House Beautiful was an opportunity to introduce many women into architectural and design spaces, yet it often would romanticize and celebrate styles without consideration or care for their origins, roots, and historical relevance. Celebrated styles like colonial revival were celebrated and became a staple of American design due to their connection to early American symbolism and vernacular. However, as author Kathleen James-Chakraborty points out, in the articles published by House Beautiful, there is little acknowledgement of what colonial architecture means to Black people in America. Colonial-revival architecture may be a reminder of early America and democracy to some, yet it is also a harsh reminder of the brutal slave trade in the United States. This lack of cultural depth and understanding can also be seen in the growing popularity of Chinese and Japanese styles. Firstly, the common trend for Americans to generalize different Asian cultures and styles as “oriental styles” alone shows the lack of understanding of what many people were attempting to mimic, essentially Chinoiserie. Instead, using foreign styles as a way to appear ‘well traveled’ or show off an ‘exotic style.’ For example, landscape architect Rose Standish Nichols, who was involved in campaigns for women’s suffrage, wrote about and celebrated the art of Chinese Gardens, all while hypocritically stating that they were “almost too profound … and far too complicated to be grasped in all its intricacies by the Occidental mind.” Yet in retrospect, today readers can’t help but wonder if it is actually Nichols who lacks depth and understanding.

Application: The obsession and exhibitionism with styles outside of the United States and Europe continued to be present in the 1940s. In Figure 1,  there is an advertisement about how to create screens for your home. While seemingly innocent, upon closer inspection and reading of the blurb of the how-to guide, you may notice the use of different Asian styles and aesthetics to adorn these screens. One of the instructions even read “paste a Chinese Ancestor wall hanging on the center panel.” While, of course, there may be some readers who are Chinese, it is also safe to assume that many readers of the time were white middle-class women.  Including Chinese or other Asian styles often was not a celebration or connection to Chinese culture, but rather, they were eccentric pieces to have in your home, essentially performative cultural appropriation.

Figure 1. Do-it-yourself screen design guide on how to take a basic screen and give it a unique design.
House Beautiful March 1940, pg. 50-51

In contrast to the early House Beautiful issue, Architect Kazuyo Sejima redesigns a century-old home in Kyoto. Sejima redesigned this home for a couple to ” honor tradition, craftsmanship, and community” in the updated home. Sejima chose to maintain the essence of the existing building by using similar building techniques that were used over a hundred years ago when the home was first built. The home and the styles it enjoys are rooted in the cultural history surrounding it, and Sejima is aware of these histories. As an architect and designer, her designs merge the past and present without trying to let one consume the other. While this house is a sanctuary for the couple who live there, it is also still a part of the greater community it is surrounded by.

Figure 2. The dining area of the remodeled century-old home in Kyoto
Architectural Digest, “Kazuyo Sejima Reimagines a Young Couple’s Century-Old Kyoto Home,” written by Hannah Martin. Photographed by Yoshihiro Makino

By Women, For Women

By Women, For Women

Summary

In the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, the acceptable occupations for upper-class women were expanding, but were still limited, and the ideas of “men’s work” and “women’s work” were fairly strictly delineated. As such, while architecture was (and still is) a field dominated by men, interior design and decoration was considered the realm of women.

It was in this cultural mindset that Elsie de Wolfe’s career as a tastemaker and professional interior decorator took off. De Wolfe’s clients were often women, specifically married women of means, many of whom were introduced to her by her long-time partner Elisabeth Marbury.

In terms of style, de Wolfe’s interiors were lighter, more colorful, and more modern than the Victorian interiors of the previous decades, though still leaning heavily on historical pieces and motifs, rather than toward more modern, avant-garde designs. Her interiors were intentionally and unashamedly feminine, featuring different combinations of similar motifs and stylistic choices. Chintz, Chinoiserie, garden motifs, and other similarly ornate themes were commonly featured in her work.

Critical Response

It’s hardly unique to Elsie de Wolfe’s work, but a recurring theme in her interiors is Orientalism. While Orientalism in European art and architecture became prevalent over a century earlier, and the term itself wouldn’t be coined until 1978, with Edward Said’s publication, as an idea, it was well-established by de Wolfe’s time. Chinoiserie is a western interpretation/imitation of Chinese artistic traditions, and Chintz is derived from Indian printed textiles.

The association between the overt, stereotypical femininity of de Wolfe’s interiors and her use of Chinoiserie may have a more significant link, particularly with regards to how they shaped cultural perceptions of design styles and trends through the rest of the 20th century. The negative descriptors that designs like de Wolfe’s may sometimes engender now–frilly, fussy, overly ornate, et cetera–are certainly shaped by structural misogyny. However, in comparison to design styles and elements that read (from a perspective shaped by contemporary associations with and understanding of gender) as more masculine are often the simpler, darker, Bauhaus-inspired modern furniture pieces and design motifs. These, while undoubtedly also shaped by Orientalism and cultural exchange, have a much stronger association of “European-ness” than something like Chinoiserie.

With this in mind, is it possible that the negative interpretations of interior styles popularized by de Wolfe and her contemporaries are shaped not only by misogyny, but also by Eurocentric ideas of what ‘good design’ is, in comparison to the artistic traditions and aesthetics associated with non-European cultures?

Application

Case 1: IKEA style report: Classic blue & white decor

Figure 1. The top of the IKEA blog post: “IKEA style report: Classic blue & white decor”

Figure 1. From “IKEA style report: Classic Blue & White Decor”
URL: https://www.ikea.com/global/en/stories/ideas-inspiration/style-report-blue-and-white-home-decor-240214/ Provided caption: “There’s a dreamy hint of summer as florals inspire a romantic feeling all around the home. Blue and white porcelain against a backdrop of cream and white feels light and refreshing. Meanwhile, cushions adorned with ruffles and piping add a refined touch – but paired with hand embroidery and soft cotton, the look couldn’t be more inviting!”

The legacy of the interior design styles and motifs popularized by Elsie de Wolfe and her contemporaries is still evident today, as seen in this recent IKEA style report (no exact date provided, presumably from 2024 or 2025), which uses keywords such as “Romantic” and “Innocent,” both of which have connotations of femininity, as do the imagery of ruffles and embroidery in the description. Furthermore, the colors are reminiscent of the blue-and-white Chinese porcelain which was popular and influential on European design.

The products in this collection were designed by Paulin Machado. She is quoted in the article: “For this collection, I was inspired by plants and flowers, especially a Swedish herb with small pink flowers called ÅKERNEJLIKA.”

Figure 2: IKEA plates in an assortment of blue-and-white patterns

Assorted blue and white IKEA plates with a classic white ceramic teapot

Figure 2: From “IKEA style report: Classic Blue & White Decor”
URL: https://www.ikea.com/global/en/stories/ideas-inspiration/style-report-blue-and-white-home-decor-240214/
Provided caption: “Breezy blues, served with a dollop of cream. There’s something so nostalgic yet classic about this vintage and botanical-inspired look – bringing to mind afternoon tea and long, lazy afternoons. Yes, please!”

The reference to Chinese porcelain is more explicit in this image, though the patterns are not quote-unquote authentic. The floral motifs and delicate form of the teapot are similar to design elements found in Elsie de Wolfe’s interiors.

Figure 3: An IKEA bedroom display, with products featuring blue-and-white floral prints and stripes.

A bedroom featuring IKEA products in a blue and white floral pattern

Figure 3: From “IKEA style report: Classic Blue & White Decor”
URL: https://www.ikea.com/global/en/stories/ideas-inspiration/style-report-blue-and-white-home-decor-240214/
Provided caption: “With its rustic feel, the RÅGODLING series of wardrobe storage solutions is too pretty to hide behind closed doors. “

Several of the design motifs and elements in the IKEA products displayed here, including floral print textiles and striped wallpaper, were also found in the interiors designed by Elsie de Wolfe.

Overall, this IKEA style report shows significant stylistic similarity to the feminine interior design styles crafted by de Wolfe, including references to Asian-inspired motifs and aesthetics. In this case, the explicit reference is to the patterns seen on porcelain exported (primarily) from China, and later imitated in Europe. The color palette, patterns, and overall form of the IKEA products featured in this blog post read as very feminine, albeit much less ornate than the original Elsie de Wolfe interiors, which is to be expected given the change in target demographic. De Wolfe was designing for wealthy clients, while IKEA products are targeted primarily at working class consumers.

Case 2: Women’s influence on popular interior decor patterns, as seen in the October 1922 edition of House Beautiful

Figure 4: The first page of “Some Principles of Interior Design as Interpreted by Miss Gheen, Inc.” by Theo Baer

Figure 4: House Beautiful, October 1922 edition, page 301: “Some Principles of Interior Design as Interpreted by Miss Gheen, Inc.” by Theo Baer

In this article from the October 1922 edition of House Beautiful, the author describes their interview with a professional interior decorator named Miss Gheene. Miss Gheene describes her views on principles of interior design, including use of color, pattern, and materiality. This constitutes another example of women being in a position of authority as it regards interior design during the early 20th century, and similarly to Elsie de Wolfe, Miss Gheene’s design principles favor lighter elements, brighter colors, and bolder patterns than those typically seen in Victorian interior design. Like de Wolfe, Miss Gheene mentions using chintz several times during the article. The image on the first page of the article, shown in figure 4, also indicates orientalist influence, with the inclusion of a Japanese screen.

Figure 5. “New Designs for Wallpapers and Curtains”

Figure 5: House Beautiful, October 1922 edition, page 304-305: “New Designs for Wallpapers and Curtains”

The wallpapers featured in the October 1922 edition of House Beautiful vary in style, from trompe l’oeil to floral to Chinese-inspired. While not all look like they belong in an Elsie de Wolfe interior, most of them read as feminine, and would not be out of place in one of her designs. According to the captions on each of the images, at least some of the wallpaper patterns were designed by women, with three of the designs being credited to Flora MacDonald. Based on the time period and the language used in the captions, which speak of nurseries, and the target demographic for these designs also seems to be women.

Figure 6: An Advertisement for Cheney Silks

Figure 6: House Beautiful, October 1922 edition, page 369: “Cheney Silks”

In an advertisement clearly targeted at women, the designs on these printed silks are compared to “dainty cushions, lampshades, draperies, table-runners, and tea gowns.” It connects women’s fashion and interior design, and ends by saying that the products are available both in dress-making and decorating shops or departments. While the name “Cheney Brothers” indicates that the company is owned by men, the products are obviously made for women, who would have likely had the reigns with regard to the selection of textiles for home decoration.

Synthesis

In both the examples seen in the October 1922 edition of House Beautiful and the recent IKEA blog post, there is a throughline of feminine motifs being popular in interior design. For over 100 years, floral prints and bright colors have appealed to consumers, primarily women. In the time of Elsie de Wolfe, the expression of interior spaces, particularly the home, was one of the few ways that women could have power and influence in a deeply sexist and patriarchal society. Even today, the stereotype that interior design is something that women are primarily concerned with remains strong. In media, when the husband takes an interest in interior design, he is often relegated to a “man cave,” due to being portrayed as having poor taste. While these portrayals, often coming from sitcoms, are exaggerated, they come from deeply ingrained and prevalent ideas in our culture.

With this in mind, it makes sense that design companies like IKEA are making and advertising products which appeal to traditional ideas of femininity, just as companies were in 1922.