“How to Summer like an Italian”- Bon Appétit- a Brief Review of the Article

“How to Summer like an Italian”

 

Bon Appétit
, one of the most well-known and respected food magazines circulated in the United States, published an article titled, “How to Summer like an Italian”. The writing style is personable and humorous with descriptive sense evoking paragraph regarding the food and drink consumed by the writers.

 

The article speaks of a quaint villa, which in reality looks more like a castle, placing the author’s perspective as slightly out of touch with readers. Particularly readers who may be more concerned with cost convenience and preparation convenience, over uniqueness of experience.

 

The food also follows this trend: more “luxury” liquors and foods, such as fresh shrimp cooked in pastry (similar to an empanada), or fine cheeses and wines serve as casual lunches or mid-afternoon snacks.

 

However, the author engages the identity of readers as an American audience.  One may call it the “melting pot” background of Americans, others may suggest it is the need to explore and expand boundaries- physical and experiential. The variety of unique experiences does draw in American readers (hence the success of a magazine known for such articles as this). However, the variety is rooted in familiarity. The details of days spent swimming or laying on the dock or fishing likely serves as a familiar basis on which to build the story of unfamiliar and widely varied food, drinks, and experiences.

 

Most striking is the description of lunch by the lake, a meal of simple grilled fish and salad or bread and meats/cheeses. The story likely serves to evoke certain food memories of American audiences. While the exact recipes are different, the type of food served (salads, fish, etc.) parallel those of US readers. Even if they themselves have not consumed fresh fish on a lakeshore, the image is ingrained as a part of American summers, a memory/ideal of food formed from expectation, if not experience.

 

Ultimately, as staunchly upper-class centered and foreign as the authors’ adventures in foods may be, the article utilizes collective memories/ideals to link familiar with foreign

 

Rigoberto’s

Rigoberto’s Taco Shop:

Un Institución de Redmond

 

Rigoberto’s Taco Shop has served Redmond for the last 15 years. In that period of time, the cream and red coloured building has become a mainstay of Redmond’s culture. While the venue engages in no advertising (apart from banners lining the western wall), Rigoberto thrives nonetheless.

 

The smell of carne asada marinades the surrounding blocks on the busy weekends. While the population of Redmond barely reaches 30,000, the drive-thru remains busy for most of the day- and night. The draw of Rigobertos- and their ethereal scents of carne asada, carnitas, and queso- is evident in the culture that has developed, with references being found throughout the social media pages of residents. 

 

Una Cena Deliciosa:

After ordering at the large menu board, one can expect a brief wait in line before reaching the window, at which a cheerful greeting and food is delivered.

 

During my visit, I ordered bunuelos, flan, two tamales de pollo, and an horchata. Upon arriving home and opening the styrofoam to-go boxes, the scent of the warm salsa covering the delicate tamales scented the air. The tomato, lettuce, and crema fresca formed a bright palette of colour, reminiscent of the mexican flag. The flavors were just as vibrant, the masa dough not overwhelmed by the salsa, but rightly matched with the mild, warm sauce with the melted cheese on top. The bunuelos, crispy fried tortillas sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar, was a plentiful serving, enough to share with family for a simple dessert. The crisp, dark tortilla with its browned exterior gave a less sweet note to this sugar-coated specialty. The flan, advertised as made fresh daily, exceeds expectations for such a convenience focused restaurant. While not as gelatinous as other flan I have had, the custard keeps its shape and absorbs the thin caramel flavored sauce into the first eighth to quarter of an inch, melding the flavors into a quality flan one could find in a much higher priced venue.

 

Rigoberto’s Success:

The popularity and cultural presence of Rigoberto’s in Redmond can easily be explained in terms of Belasco’s triangle. The convenience of this quick, low-cost taco shop is undeniable. At the same time, the shop doesn’t make any large sacrifices in flavor or quality. The restaurant fits the collective identity of Redmond and the surrounding area. In a region known for a vibrant hispanic community, the restaurant embraces the multi-cultural dimension of the high desert, serving culturally-syncretic dishes such as carne asada fries, and hiring bilingual employees to serve every expected customer. The simply garnished, no frills food fits the overwhelmingly rural, blue-collar community. While I am uninformed regarding the restaurant’s spending habits, as a longtime local business with two locations in Central Oregon.