Image of the peaks as seen from the beginning of the trail.

Approaching the peaks

After arriving at the foot of the mountain, our two guides gave us helmets and harnesses– at which point I internally thought “ohh f-ck, this is real.” We hiked uphill for a solid hour(?) before we went through the first tunnel. Then we clipped on to metal ropes and crossed through the face of the cliff. I was terrified, to say the least. I was almost completely hyperventilating and my head was spinning. The humane terror of knowing that if I slipped, it was only these metal clips sheltering me from Death. And the views were absolutely breathtaking. I would look up from my feet– unsteadily placed– and just lose myself in the looming, beautiful mountains stretching far and miraculously tall. I have never experienced anything like this before. I nearly broke down crying at each terrifying junction, and when I reached the end of that stretch, I could not stop the tears. Standing there, surrounded by my friends, unable to take my eyes off of the expansive mountains stretching across the horizon, I cried. I couldn’t– and still can’t– put to words the emotions I experienced. It was sublimity– subliminal– sublime. 

View of the Dolomites as seen from the trail (at the terrifying part)

In the middle of it…

The next part of the hike was a 1.5-2 hour trek through an uphill tunnel. Stair after stair, floor after floor, one foot after another, it never ended. I retreated inside my mind, held by the darkness and chill in the air. I was entirely within myself– it was meditative. My legs grew numb with exertion, and my mind quiet. Still. I haven’t experienced such serenity (lack of anxiety, as I first described it) in so long. My mind constantly races, but it was still with the shock of sublimity. 

When we finally reached the end of the uphill tunnel, all I could see was a door. Or, a bright light shining in the shape of a door, starkly contrasting with the dark expanse of the tunnel. And when we stepped out, we were immersed in the clouds among the peaks. I hadn’t quite realized how far we had climbed on those stairs, but here we were, on a peak. The subsequent 30 minute hike the rest of the way to Lagazuoi was breathtaking. Finally out of my shock, I collected some samples of the plants on the trail. 

When we got to the rifugio on the top of the mountain, the first thing I did was shed my helmet. Then I had a delicious cappuccino and tagliatelle al ragu with my friends. 

Me holding a cappuccino on the balcony of the rifugio

Un cappuccino